A
Acropolis 142, 145
Addis Ababa 254
Adriatic Sea 115, 123, 127, 129, 130
afghani, Afghan 171, 172
Afghanistan 172, 194, 195, 207, 210,
211, 213, 214, 215, 220, 221, 230,
231, 233, 234, 242, 295
Ministry of Agriculture 229, 235
Ministry of Health 235
Tourist Office 235
Tourist Organization 229
Africa 143, 255, 266
boat to 150, 253
Africa for Africans policy 281
Agra 263, 269
Albania 129, 135, 136, 137, 138
Alcantara 75
alcoholic beverages 205
arak 202, 203
Johnny Walker 276
Mekong 374
raki 151, 152
rum 260
slivovitz 127
Alegrias 204
Alexander the Great 137, 182, 243
Algarve 74
Alhambra 69
Allah 279
Almeria 69
alphabet
Cyrillic 131
Roman 131
Alps 78, 84, 93, 105, 107, 108
Dinaric 124, 125
Italian 105
meadows of 107
Swiss 102
Transylvanian 138
Altamira 80
Ambassador (automobile) 353
Ambassador, U.S. 117
America. See United States
American Express 255, 256, 304, 364,
365, 369
Americans 198, 328, 329
nurses 203
troops 342, 347, 373, 376, 377, 382
ugly 198
American Way of Life, The 322
Anatolia 150, 153
Anatolian Plain 151, 189
Andalucia 66, 69, 74, 136, 182
Andorra 62, 63, 64, 65, 67
animal statues 258
animal worship 359
Ankara 145, 150
Annapurna 297, 309, 313, 315, 317,
318, 321
“April in Portugal” 76
aqueduct, Roman 182
Arabian Nights 126, 166
Arabs 204
arak 202, 203
Aralen 184, 351
Arinsal 63
arpeggios 204
Aryans 243, 258
Asia 144, 145, 150
Southeast 325, 382
Asia Minor 151
aspanas (dancing girls) 274
Assam 325, 327, 332, 335, 336, 338, 340,
341, 343, 344, 348, 356, 371
Assam Oil Company 333
Astara 168
Ataturk, Kemal 161
Athens 140, 141, 142, 143, 144, 145,
166, 377
Australia 383
Austria 56, 99, 103, 105, 107
autopsy, JoAnne’s 393
Azerbaijan 163, 164, 168

B
baby food 145
Bactria 234
Badakshan 234
Baghdad 223
Baglung 316
bagpipes 287
Balkan Peninsula 130, 131
Baluchistan 189, 197, 207, 209
Baluchi tribes 207
Bam 181, 189
bamboo 312, 317
bandit 155
Bangkok 372, 376, 383
bar girls in 373, 376
Bangladesh 257
bar girls of Hong Kong 307
Bavaria 89
bazaar 187, 227, 231, 238
beach, Zerky’s 397, 398
beatnik 41, 44
Bedouins 195
Begum, Empress Arjuman Bano 270
Belgrade 45, 115, 116, 117, 120, 124,
131
Benares 284, 285, 291, 294, 304, 346
Bengal 256
East 256
West 256, 257, 351, 363, 367
Beni 317
Bern 113, 117, 127
betel nuts 346
Bhutan 355, 356, 359, 360
Bible 158, 176
Bihar 290, 294, 295
birds 263, 264, 268, 308, 326, 337, 338,
342, 374
Bizet, Georges 70
Black Cat 42
Black Sea 149, 150
blank spot on the map 69, 70
Blind White Fish in Persia 183
blue jars 327
boat
Africa to Colon, Panama 255
Bombay to Nairobi 255
to Panama 365
Bodnath Stupa 302, 319, 320
Bohemia 89, 90
Bombay 250, 267, 268, 272
Bombay International Airport 267
Bonny Doon 397
books 244
Bosnia-Herzegovina 122, 123, 125, 126,
131
Bosporus 126, 147, 149
bourgeoisie 108
Bowles, Ambassador 260, 290
Braco 116
Brahmaputra River 294, 327, 336, 359
Brahma the Creator 278
Brahmin’s Cake Shop 371
Brahmins 272, 371
Brenner Pass 56
Brian. See friends and acquaintances
British Commonwealth of Nations 254
British Empire 243, 338, 344
British High Commission 255
British Petroleum Company 177, 179
Brno 93, 94
Bucharest 138
Budapest 113
Buddha 257, 258, 279, 302
Buddhas 274
Buddhism 359
buffalo 295, 337
Bulgaria 131
Bullfrog Lake 48
Bunny Club 382
burkah 232, 238
Burma 335, 342, 356, 369, 383, 384
Burma-Shell 367
Burma Road 328, 335, 342, 349

C
Caesaria (restaurant) 75
Calcutta 256, 257, 264, 360, 364, 365,
366, 367, 368, 369
riots in 261
California 394
Camargue 61
camel caravan 207, 226
camels 163, 164, 181, 200, 201, 202,
234, 260
Camp Hotel 305, 306
camping 200, 207, 225, 247
Canada 371
Cantabria 77, 80
Cantabrian range 78
Cape San Vicente 74
Cape Town 255
capitalism 127, 175
Caravans (James Michener) 219, 226
Carcassonne 62
Cares Gorge 80
Carmen 70
carnet 144, 199, 241
Carpathians. See Tatra Mountains
carpet
magic 170, 181
Persian 175
Cartagena 69
Caspian Sea 163, 168, 169
caste system 261, 329, 344, 351
catacombs 94
Catalan 66
cathedral
Byzantine 147
Christian 148
Catholicism 131, 175
cats 379
caviar 169
ceiling, honeycombed 181
cerebral aneurism 393
chador 232
Chalus 163
Chamberlin, Phil and Patricia 388
Chan (film booker) 387
chapattis 202
Chattopodhyay, Bahrid. See friends and
acquaintances
cheetrai 272, 283
Cherrapunji 338
Chiang Kai-shek 342
children, blond 187
China 135, 136, 197, 322, 335, 342, 369,
380, 383, 384
Chinese Army 291
Chinese people 298
Cho Oyu 297
Chowkidar 290, 358
Christianity 126, 148
Christians 130, 147, 148
missionaries 199, 210
Christmas 184, 260, 264, 266, 270, 294
Chumbi Valley 358
church
Catholic 131, 175
Orthodox 131
Protestant 131
reach of 176
CIA 177, 179
circuit houses 273, 278, 290, 325
circus 258
closure 395
clothing 259
cobras 271
coffee, Turkish 151
Coimbra 75
Cold War 120, 168, 220, 359, 384
colonels, Greek 140
Columbus 69
communism 95, 127, 131, 175
anti-Communist sentiment 276
Communist Party 112, 120
Communists 112, 302, 367
concentration camp 85, 95
Connaught Circle 253
Connaught Place 352
conspiracy 177, 178
conspirare 177
Constantinople 147
Consulate, Thai 365
Consumers, Utah 402, 403, 404
Cooke, Hope 356, 359, 361
Corbett National Park 304
Cordoba 148
corporations, multinational 176
corpse 285
Council of Letran 176
coup d’etat 140, 178
cows, sacred 253, 260, 266, 287, 288
cows and bulls, India 267
cranes 338
cremation 287
crematorium 85, 87
Croatia 111, 114, 117, 125, 131
Cuba 135
cymbidicims (insigne multiflorium) 354
Cyrus the Great 182
Czechoslovakia 88, 89, 90, 91, 93, 94,103, 105
Eastern 93, 97, 98
Czech Republic. See Czechoslovakia

D
Dachau 84, 85, 95
dachshunds 141, 269
Dacoits 271
DAK bungalows 241, 264, 278, 290, 291
Dalmatia 131
Dalmatian Coast 114, 123, 124, 131
Dana 310
dancers, Siamese 379
Daniel, Dick and Casey 388
Dari. See languages
Darius the Great 182
Darjeeling, Queen of the Hill Stations
351, 352, 353, 355, 359
Darjeeling district 341
Dasht-e-Lut 186, 189
Deer Park 358
demons 274, 299
desert 181, 189, 195
Dhaulagiri 297, 307, 309, 315, 321
diapers 145, 239, 261, 376
Dibrugarh 343, 347
Digboi 333, 340, 350
Digboi Club 343
Din, Gunga 200, 201
Djilas, Milovan 112, 120
Dogubayazit 154, 157, 159
dollars, U.S. 171, 172
Dolomites 101, 105
Domazlice 89
domes 147, 181
doves 374
Dracula, Count 138
drugs
cocaine 233
hashish 166, 184, 205, 212, 214, 233
LSD 233
marijuana 184, 233, 284
morphine 233
opium 166, 205, 233
pot paradise 233
synthetic heroin 233
water pipe 184
drums 287
Dubcek, Alexander 92
Dubrovnik 115
dungeon 94
Durbar Square 301
Durrell, Gerald x

E
eagles 326, 327
egrets 338
Egypt 182
Eiger, North Face 106
Eisenhower, Dwight 177, 178, 179
elephants 258, 269, 271, 290, 295, 304,
325, 326, 327, 328, 336
circus 350
rogue 336
tourist 350
wild 345, 350
work 350
Elvis 141
Embassy
African 266
American 229, 245, 260, 261, 370
American, in New Delhi 387
British 160
Chinese 323
German 144
Iranian 144
Pakistani 229
Russian 235, 236
Sudanese 253
Turkish 144
USSR 228
England 220
Englishmen 150, 159
erotic lovers fondling 274
Erzerum 151, 160
Ethiopia 254
Europe 143, 147, 170
medieval 175
roads linking with India 194
roads linking with Iran 194
Europeans 52, 103, 109, 126, 130, 137,
138

F
fado 75, 76
fair price doctrine 176
Faizabad 228, 234
Fal Kata 325
Far East 381
Far From the Madding Crowd 378
Farm Security Administration 402
Faro 74
Farsi. See languages
ferns 346
Fez (city) 39
fez (hat) 126
fish 269
flamenco 44, 61, 69, 70, 76, 204, 276
flood-control project 294
Foix, count of 64
Fokker Friendship 307
Food 427
curry 211
hamburgers 245
France 58, 59, 62, 69, 384
“French 69″ 274
French Riviera 59
friends and acquaintances
Americans 212
Brian 306
Chattopadhyay, Bahrid 341, 348
dreamy-eyed Afghan border boy in
green 200
four young Americans 184
Germans 290
the leftenant 199, 200
Mike and Fiona 184, 185, 233
Penny, Simon 343, 344
Raj 345, 348
Raju and Camar 366
Stephanie and Eddie 199, 201, 205,
209, 210, 211
the Swedes, Lars and Ula 183, 214,
228, 234, 304, 306, 307, 323
Fuji Club 382

G
Galeta Bridge 147
Ganga, the river goddess 286, 304
Gangeatic Plain 295, 296
Ganges 285, 286, 287, 290, 291, 294,
312, 336
Gangtok 353, 355, 356, 358, 359, 361
Garden of Eden 78
gasoline, cost of 178
Gauhati 327, 330
gazelles 272
Germany 51, 56, 89, 143, 144
Ghara 263
Ghasa 315
ghats 284, 285, 288
Ghazipur 347
Ghazni 218, 223
Ghorapani 309, 310
ghosts 405, 406
Gibraltar, Strait of 143
glaciers 63, 107
God 279
goddess, river 294
gods, Hindu 266
gold leaf 377
Gompa 314
Gorozde 129
Granada 69, 80
Great Game 220, 221
Great Mosque of Cordoba 148
Great Sand Desert, Iran 186, 189
Greece 135, 138, 139, 140, 142, 143,
150, 178, 182
ancient 142
beaches of 109
Hellenic civilizations of 131
Greeks 138
griffins, phallic 298
Grindelwald 106
Gruz 116
Guadalquivir River 71
Guardian Angel 156
Guernica 80
guitar 44, 61, 76, 204, 260
Gunga Din 200, 201
guns 154, 242
AK-47 242
Khyber rifles 244
Gurkha 308

H
hair, blond 261
half-yaks 312
Hanoi Club 382
Hanuman 274
hashish. See drugs
headhunters 336, 350
Hellenic civilizations 131
Helper, Utah 402, 404
herons 338
High Sierras 47
Highway 1 397
hiking 105
Himalaya, the mountain god, mother of
Ganga 286
Himalayas 291, 293, 296, 342, 355, 356
Hinduism 266, 288
Hindu Kush 234
Hindus 264, 267, 286
hippies 195, 218, 233, 284, 294, 303, 379
convention of 303
Hiranya Varna Mahaviha 298
hitchhikers 113, 198, 199, 206
American 197
Hitler, Adolf 95
Holy Roman Empire 147
homosexuality 274
Hong Kong 365, 370, 379, 381, 382
bar girls in 382
Hong Kong Island 383
Hoope, Dr. 229
hospitality, Middle Eastern 197
Hotel Kandahar 212, 215, 216, 217
Hotel Moscow 117
Hotel Parliament 376
Howl 41
Huelva 70, 71
hump, flying the 342
Hungarian Uprising 45, 113, 120
Hungary 103, 113, 120
Soviet invasion of 115
Soviet postwar occupation of 113
Hungary-Yugoslavia border 115
Hussainiwala 248, 249
hustler, street 171, 173
Hvar 115
hyenas 229

I
Iberian Peninsula 80
ibex 229
Illyrians 131
immunizations 144
imperialism 220
India 150, 158, 172, 182, 210, 211, 220,
241, 244, 249, 251, 252, 255, 256,
257, 323, 324, 325, 335, 344, 355,
362, 367, 369
army of 342
border of 248, 250
colony of 216
death in 289
government of 291, 294
hatred of 242
hurrying is a mistake in 294
Ministry of Foreign Affairs 261
northern 360
partition of 256
taking leave in 293
India-Pakistan War over Kashmir 249
India-speak 290
Indian, American 260
Indian family, Kaziranga 331
Indian Plain 243
Indians, hatred of 203
Indonesia 383
Indus River 244
Industrial Revolution 91
infidels, Buddhist and Hindu 243
inspection bungalows 278, 325, 333, 350
insurance policy 171
interest 176
Intourist 235, 237
Iran 153, 157, 159, 162, 163, 168, 170,
178, 179, 192, 207, 211, 221
border of 152, 206
border officials of 195
customs officer 199
democratically elected government of 178
historical treasures stolen 182
military forces of 178
National Museum 178
northeastern 194
Northern 149
Shah of 163, 164, 178
southeast 189
southern 189
Iron Curtain 89, 168
iron maidens 94
Isfahan 181, 184
Islam 147, 148, 158, 195, 243
Islamabad 207
Istanbul 147, 148
Italy 57, 105, 110
Northern 105, 107, 123

J
jackals 229
Jahan, Emperor Shah 270
Jairampur 342
Jalpaiguri 351
Japan 365, 370
Jesus 279
JoAnne
ashes of 397
closet of 395
letter to friends 335
pregnancy of 393
JoAnne’s diary 208, 227, 238, 264
Amritsar to Nepal, Assam and
Calcutta, New Delhi, Taj Mahal,
Shivpuri National Park 253
Baluchistan 209
Bangkok 373
Benares 284
Christmas Day at Shivpuri, and
Khajuraho 272
Darjeeling to Assam 348
Final Entry 384
Kabul 228
Katmandu 298
Khyber Pass 241
Last Days in Calcutta 371
More Bangkok 379
More Katmandu 305
Nepal to Kaziranga Wildlife Sanctuary
in Assam 325
Patna and Bihar 289
Quetta and Kandahar 212
Rawalpindi and West Pakistan 247
Taj Mahal 262
Trekking to Annapurna; Pokhara to
Tukuche on Foot 307
West Bengal to Calcutta 363
West Pakistan 251
jodhpurs 354
John Muir
Trail 48
Wilderness 48
Johnny 115
Johnson, President Lyndon 382
Jolson, Al 91
Jomosom 313, 314
junks 384

K
Kabul 218, 219, 225, 226, 227, 230, 232,
234
pot paradise 233
University of 229
zoo 229
Kali 257, 278
Kali Gandaki River 306, 307, 310, 312,
314, 316, 317, 321
Kanchenjunga 297, 352, 353
Kandahar 195, 212, 214, 215, 218, 219,
233
Karachi 250
Karina 392, 394
Kashmir 237, 242, 243, 256
war in 202
Katmandu 291, 293, 294, 297, 298, 300,
305, 314, 318, 321
pot paradise 233
Road to 170, 233
Katmandu Valley 321
Kaziranga Wildlife Sanctuary 326, 327,
331, 336, 349
Kearsarge Lakes 48, 49
Kearsarge Pass 48
Kennedy, Bobby 388
Kenya 143, 255, 281
Kerala 345
Kerman 186, 189
Khajuraho 272, 277, 344
temples of 273
Khan, Genghis 226, 243
Khayyam, Omar 170
khedda 349
Khyber 242, 243
Khyber Hotel 230
Khyber Pass 223, 237, 241, 242, 243, 244
Khyber Restaurant 228, 235
King Darius the Great (Xerxes’ father)
140
Kipling, Rudyard 201, 244
Kishanganj 363
Koran 198
Kosovo 136
Kosovo-Macedonia-Albania border 151
Krishna, Lord, frolics with milkmaids
368
Krishna Mandir 298
Krushchev, Nikita 115
Kunming 342

L
La Bodega 44
Ladhi Hotel 253
Lahore 249
Lakbah, Ang 307, 308
Lake Ohrid 135, 136, 137, 138, 140
Lamaism 359
Land Rover 150, 158, 160, 298
Lange, Dorothea 21, 402
languages
Chinese 258
Dari 225
Farsi 200
Greek 258
Hindi 258, 264, 346
Pashto 200, 225
Sanskrit 258
Serbo-Croatian 124, 125, 129, 131
Urdu 200, 203, 246
Laos 383, 384
La Salle (automobile) 283
lederhosen 105
Ledo 347
Ledo Road 348
Ledo Tea Estate 348
leeches 337, 350
Left Bank, Paris 44, 84
Lekahpani 342, 347, 349
leopards 229, 283, 295, 329, 345, 350
Lepchas 356
lesbians 299
Lete 315
Letters
From the Algarve 74
From Andorra 62
From Assam 340
From Athens 140
From Baluchistan 197
From a Bangkok Whorehouse 376
From Benares 285
From the Blank Spot on Our Map
(South of Seville) 69
From Brno in Moravia 93
From Calcutta 367
From the Caspian Sea 163
From Dachau 84
From Ghazni 218
From the Himalayas 293
From Hong Kong 381
From Hussainiwalla 248
From Iran’s Great Sand Desert 186
From Istanbul 147
From Kabul 230
From Kandahar 214
From Katmandu 300
From Katmandu (second letter) 321
From Khajuraho (Red Hot) 277
From the Khyber 242
From the Li’bana 78
From Lisbon 75
From Macedonia 135
From the Matterhorn 103
From Montenegro 129
From Mount Ararat 157
From Munich 52
From Near Mount Ararat 154
From Prague 89
From Quetta 210
From Sarajevo 123
From Shiraz 181
From Shivpuri 266
From Sikkim 355
From Somewhere in Anatolia 150
From Tehran 170
From the French Riviera 59
From Zahedan 189
Lhotse 297
Lido Island 123
Li’bana, La 77, 78, 79
Star of 78
Lincoln Street 389
Lisbon 75, 76
Livno 124
lizards 379
Ljubljana 113, 114
llama 315
London 113
Lost Generation 44
Lucknow 264
Lumli 308
Lytton Hotel 364

M
Macedonia 126, 131, 134, 135, 136, 137
Machapuchare 308, 318, 319
Madhya Pradesh 266, 272, 277
Madras 264
Madrid 80
Magar 316
Magic Flute, The 61
Mahamud of Ghazni 223, 243
mahouts 326, 337
Makalu 297
malaria 184, 185
Aralen for 184
Malda (Ingraj Bazaar) 363
malnutrition 295
Manaslu 297
Manipur 340
Mao, Chairman 136, 314
Maran Tea Estate 343
Marathon 140
Marathon, Battle of 140
Margaret, Princess (Queen Elizabeth’s
sister) 348
Margherita 333, 335, 340, 342, 344, 347,
348, 350
Marmara, Sea of 148
Marx, Karl 176
Mashad 194
Matterhorn 103, 104, 108, 123, 318
McCarthy, Eugene (New Hampshire
primary) 366
Mediterranean Sea 56, 66, 130
Mekong. See alcoholic beverages
Merimee, Prosper 70
Mestrovic Gallery 115
Middle Ages 94, 231
Middle East
thievery in 177
U.S. problems with 179
Middle Eastern oil tanker routes 114
Mike and Fiona. See friends and acquaintances
Milan 117
military junta 145
military rule 140
minaret 126, 127, 147, 148, 181, 238
mining camps, Utah 402
mirages 181
Misha 117, 120
missionaries 199, 210, 348
Miss Smith’s Tearoom 42
Mitchell, Joni 67
Mizoram 340
Mogrovejo 79
Mogul Dynasty 243, 270
Mohammed 126, 243
Moldau River 90
Mombasa 143
money 171
afgahni, Afghan 171, 172
dollar, U.S. 171, 172
rial, Iranian 171
ruble, Russian 172
rupee, Indian 172, 353
rupee, Nepali 300
rupee, Pakistani 171, 172
moneychanger 171
mongoose 269
Monkey Block 41
monkeys 269, 289, 309
monks 354
monsoon 294
Montenegro 127, 128, 135, 136
Moors 148
Moran Tea Estate 348
Moravia 93
Morocco 39
mosaics 148
Moscow 236
Moslems 126, 130, 148, 202, 203, 232
mosque 127, 147, 148, 170, 181, 184,
238
Mossadegh, Mohammed 177
Motihari 325
Mount Ararat 152, 154, 158, 187
Mount Durmitor 129
Mount Everest 291, 306
Movie, The 44, 334
movie business 141
muezzin 148
mule train 309
mullah 195
Munich x, 52, 84, 85, 113, 371
Munich Agreement 95

N
Nagaland 340
Nairobi 255
Nalbari 350
Namdang Tea Company 344
Namdang Tea Estate 342, 348
napalm 94
Napoleon 64
National Geographic 186
Nazis 112, 125
nelgai 283
Nepal 256, 292, 293, 295, 297, 300, 321,
355, 356, 359, 360
border of 291
border with Tibet 296
government of 296
trekking in 305
Nepal-China Friendship Room 322
Nepali Royal Airlines 307
New Delhi 253, 254, 257, 262, 266, 268,
276, 325, 352, 368, 370
New Guinea 383
New World 80
New Year’s Eve 291, 293, 294, 297
Nickelodeon Corporation 388
Nickelodeon Theatre 389, 390, 392,
396, 398
Night and Fog 85
Noah 157
Noah’s Ark 157
Nok Kundi 197, 199, 206, 241
nomads 226
North-East Frontier Agency (NEFA)
336, 342, 346
North Beach 39, 41, 70, 382
North Dakota 41, 42, 392, 394
North Sikkim Highway 359
Nowgong 327, 330
nudists 60, 129
Nuptse 297
Nuristan 234
Nye 312
nymphs 274

O
oil 180
oil industry, Iranian 177
Old Delhi 258
Olympia 141
Olympic Games 141
On the Road 41
opium. See drugs
orchids 269, 333, 346
Orthodox Church 131
Ottoman Empire 147, 161
our regulars 368
overland route to the East 149

P
pagodas 301
Hindu 257
Pahlevi, Shah Mohammed Reza 178,
201
Pakistan 172, 198, 241, 242, 256, 272
army officer 201
Department of Tourism 242
East 256, 257
government rest house 248
government tourist office 210
trucks of 245
West 195, 196, 197, 199, 200, 210,
215, 216, 234, 240, 242, 248, 249,
251, 256, 262
West, border of 197, 199
palms 312
Pamir Mountains 234
Pamplona 44
Pan-American Highway 255
Panama 365
Panama Canal 369, 383
pan leaves 346
panthers 350
pantomime 155
parakeet ix
Paras Hotel 300, 318
Paris 44, 45, 82, 84, 117
Partisans 112, 125
Pashto. See languages
passports 199
Pathans 243, 244
Patna 289, 290, 294
Patton, General 95
peacocks 272
Pekingese dogs 322
pelicans 337
Peloponnesia, beaches of 140, 141
penicillin 312
Penny 390, 394
Penny, Simon. See friends and
acquaintances
Pepe 115
permit, road 244, 248, 256, 261
Persepolis 180, 182, 184
Persia 170, 181
civilization of 182
culture of 170
Persia, Snows of 163
Persian Empire 180, 182
Persian Gulf 143, 150
Pescadero 397, 399
Peshawar 243
Phewa Lake 317
Philippines 298
Picos de Europa (Peaks of Europe) 78
Pilsner 90
Pilsner beer 90
Place, The 42
plateau 195
Playboy Bar 382
Pljevlja 129
Plzen 90
poinsettias 310, 312
Pokhara 306, 307, 308, 317, 318, 319,
321
Poland 98
police 154, 160, 397
Polo, Marco 197, 355
porters 305, 306, 312, 315
Portugal 70, 73, 74
Potes 77, 79
potholes 363
poverty, Third World 150
Prado Museum 80
Prague 84, 89, 90, 91, 93, 95
Prague Spring 92
prayer wall 311, 314
prayer wheel 302
president’s rule (West Bengal) 368
President Cleveland 385
price (fair, selling, buying, fixed, right,
real) 175
Price, Utah 402, 404
privacy, lack of 293
propane heater 153
Protestantism 131
Punjab 237, 256
Puritanism 126
Putnik 135, 136
PWD bungalows 278, 325, 326
Pyrenees 61, 62, 78, 150

Q
quanat watering system 181, 182
Quetta 195, 206, 207, 210, 211, 234
quinine 184

R
rack (torture) 94
Radio Tirana (“Voice of Albania”) 136
Raibhadu 336, 337
rainforest 295
Raj. See friends and acquaintances
Raju and Camar. See friends and
acquaintances
raki 151, 152
Ramadan 39, 228, 232
Ramayana 374
Raney, Eric Xerxes ix
first birthday 82
Raney, Zachary Alexander 388, 392
Rangpo 355, 357
Rawalpindi 242, 244, 245, 249
Raxaul 291, 295
-Birgunj border crossing 295
Ray, Satyajit 350
reconquista 80
Red Army 95, 112, 115
Red Fort 254
Republic Day 327
rest houses 278, 290, 331
rhinoceroses 295, 329
Rhodesia 256
rhododendrons 319
rial, Iranian 171
rifle 226
Khyber 199, 244
Rijeka 114
roads
Afghanistan superhighway 219
highway from Herat to Kandahar 221
linking India and Iran 194
linking India and western world 250
linking Iran and Europe 194
linking southern Iran and West
Pakistan 206
metaled 250
to Lhasa 322
to Tibet 298
Romania 109, 138, 143, 182
Romans 138
Romeo and Juliet 343
Ronda 70
Roof of the World 297
Rotterdam 113
Roy (Simon Penny’s friend) 345
ruble, Russian 172
runaways ix
running of the bulls 44
rupee
Indian 172, 353
Nepali 300
Pakistani 171, 172
Russia 172, 220, 234
Russian Trade Commission 336

S
Salt Lake City 120
Salt Lake City Symphony Orchestra 113
Samarkand 228, 235, 237
sampans 384
sand dunes 195, 207
San Francisco ix, x, 70, 74, 76, 255, 334,
344, 369, 370, 378, 379, 383, 387
San Glorio, Gates of 78
San Gotthard pass 123
San Marco Square 113, 123
Sansum 150
Santa Cruz 387
Santa Sophia 148
Sarah 112, 113, 116, 120
Sarajevo 116, 120, 123, 124, 126
JoAnne in 116
sarong 377, 379
Scandinavia 256
Schwenterley, Jim 388
Secret Agent X 236
Segovia 182
Serbia 133
Secretary of State of the Interior of
the Republic of 117
Serbo-Croatian 124, 125, 129, 131
Seti River 318
Sevilla 70
Sezana 117
Shangri-La 357
Shankar, Ravi 350
Sherpas 305, 306, 308
shikar man 283
Shiraz 181, 184, 195
Shiva lingam 371
Shiva the Destroyer 278
Shivpuri 266, 270, 272
Shivpuri National Park 264, 304
Shri Lakshmmarayan temple 257
shrines
Buddhist 374
Jain 274
Sibsagar 333, 371
Sierra Nevada Mountains, Eastern
California 48
Sierra Nevada Mountains, Spain 69
sign language 155
Sikkim 261, 325, 353, 355, 357, 358,
359, 361, 363
Siliguri 325, 351, 363
Simbhanjyang 296
Sind 256
Singha Durbar 298
Sinkiang Province, China 234
sirs (hats) 232
Slavs 126
slivovitz (plum brandy) 117, 127
Slovenia 113
Smith, Ian 254, 255
smugglers 202
snakes 345, 350
snow 315
snow leopard 228, 234
soccer 91
soldiers, Turkish 160, 187
Soleares 204
Sorsadara 317
South Africa 143, 255, 256
Southampton 113
Southern Rhodesia 254, 255
Soviet-Nepalese Friendship Library 322
Soviet border 168
Soviet Union 164, 168, 221, 235
Spain 44, 61, 62, 143, 148, 204
Northern 77
Spielberg Castle 94
Split 114, 115, 123
St. Bernards 109
St. Tropez 61
Stalin, Joseph 112, 115, 168
puppet government of 168
Stalingrad 54
Stanford 112, 113
“Stans” 207
Stephanie and Eddie. See friends and
acquaintances
Stilwell, General “Vinegar Joe” 342,
348, 349
Stilwell Road 342, 347, 348, 349
storks 325, 373
Sudan 254
Suez 114
Suez Crisis 114
Summer of Love ix, 379
swastika 258
Sweden 323
the Swedes (friends). See friends and acquaintances
Swiss Navy 115
Switzerland 82, 84, 103, 105, 106, 107,
108, 109, 123, 264

T
tabla rhythm 303
Tabriz 163, 164, 165, 168, 231, 290
Tagore 350
Taj Mahal 262, 263, 269
Talish mountain range 168
Tangiers 143
Tao Te Ching 303
Tarzan 52, 70, 93, 94, 101, 103, 127,
141, 144, 166, 169, 174, 185, 186,
203, 212, 229, 256, 261, 262, 266,
269, 289, 297, 301, 304, 305, 306,
310, 316, 322, 327, 328, 329, 330,
331, 345, 352, 365, 366, 379, 381,400
worming of 228, 229
Tashkent 228, 235, 236, 237
Tatopani 310, 315, 316
Tatra Mountains 93, 98
tea estates 341
tea gardens 338
Teesta River 355, 357
Great Canyon of the 358
Tehran 143, 170, 183, 201, 207, 212,
215, 231, 278, 290, 291, 304, 376
middle class of 168
teleferique 107
temple
Ahom 333, 334
of Emerald Buddha 372, 374, 375,
377
erotic 273, 299
Hindu 286
Jain 274, 365
of Kali 371
Katmandu 301
Terai 295, 316, 355
Terramycin 314
terrorism 125
Thailand 372, 376
Thakkhola 312
Thermopylae, Battle of 140
Through a Glass Darkly 390
thumbscrew 94
Thyangboche Monastery 306
Tibet 306, 309, 312, 322, 323, 354, 355,
356, 358, 360
Southern 356
Tibetan Camp 308
Tibetans 352
tigers 271, 283, 295, 345, 350
tile, painted 181
Tinsukia 347
Tito, Marshal 112, 115, 125, 127
Titograd 129, 135
Torkham 242
torture chambers 94
tourist, foreign 173
tourist bungalow 278, 290
Townsend, Peter 347
Trabzon 150
traffic 259
Transamerica Pyramid 42
traveler’s checks, American Express 171
trekking 306
“tribal” (person) 340, 346, 350
tribal peoples 336
Tribhuban Raj Path 291
Trieste 117, 123
Tripura 340
Tsangpo River 359
Tukuche 306, 307, 310, 311, 312, 313,
321
turban 226, 232
Turkey 143, 145, 146, 147, 158
eastern 150, 152, 153, 154, 157
interior of 150
revolution 161
War of Independence 161
Turks 126, 154
Ottoman 130, 148, 161

U
U.S. Army Corps of Engineers 221
U.S. Information Service 322
U.S. Peace Corps 298
Uganda 254
Ulcinj 129, 130, 132, 135
United Kingdom 256
United Nations World Health
Organization 235
United States 89, 106, 132, 136, 235,
283, 370
State Department 276
University of Belgrade 120
University of California at Santa Cruz
388
Unusual Tours, Inc. 86
Urdu 200, 203, 246
Urgel, Bishop of 64
US AID 235, 295
USSR 136, 237
usury 176
Utah 120, 402, 403
Uttar Pradesh 261

V
Valle de la Cereceda, La (The Valley of
the Cherry Trees) 78
Valley of the Cherry Trees 78
Varanasi (Benares) 285, 289
veiled woman 152
veils 164
Moroccan-style 152
scarf-like 152
Venice 113, 123
Vesuvio’s 44
Vienna 113
Vietnam ix, 41, 94, 135, 253, 276, 329,
373, 376, 383, 384
villages, mud 151
Vishnu the Preserver 278
Vivekananda 350
Vloemans, Joe 70
vodka, Russian 169
Vojo 116, 117
Volkswagen x, 55, 124, 143, 145, 183,
184, 195, 222, 282, 298
shock absorber, broken 195, 197
spare tire repair 245

W
Wakhan Corridor 234
washboarding (of roads) 189
Where the Rubber Meets the Road
ACT I: A Pebble on the Road 190
ACT II: A Puff of Sand 190
Act III: Malignancy Marches Forward
191
ACT IV: The Domino Effect 192
A Coda: The Cancer Spreads 193
Cancer of the Corrugated Road 192
Where the Rubber Meets the Road 190
whirling dervishes 181
whorehouse, Bangkok 373, 376
wildflowers 107
World War I 131, 161
World War II 86, 95, 112, 125, 168, 206,
231, 256, 280, 283, 342, 347, 402
World War III 221

X
Xerxes 140, 164, 180, 182
Giant Gate of 182
Hall of the One Hundred Columns
182

Y
yak 229
Yazd 181, 186, 189
yoke, sacrificial 371
Yugoslavia 44, 109, 111, 113, 117, 123,
124, 125, 126, 129, 130, 131, 132,
135, 138, 145, 151
government of 136
government tourist office of 135
in 1956 112

Z
Zabljak 129
Zagreb 117, 132
Zahedan 181, 189, 193, 195, 197, 198
tourist office of 198
“Zerky’s Waltz” 416, 417
Zerky’s Beach 397, 399
Zermatt 103, 108, 308, 351
Zimbabwe 254
Zoroastrianism 181